- Type: Rosaceae
- Flowering Period: June, July
- Height: 5-15m
- Color: white, cream, yellow, pink, orange, red, vinous
- Perennial
- Winters
- Sun loving
- Loving
Summer residents love rose bushes for their lush color and delicate aroma. Small bushes on the porch, flower beds along the path, a platform near the gazebo or pool - delicate rose buds can decorate any part of the land. But nothing can compare with climbing roses - luxurious perennials that can even turn an abandoned shack into a romantic corner. A magical carpet of fragrant flowers is ideal for vertical gardening, but it will be truly beautiful under one condition: if the correct planting and care of the climbing rose is ensured. It is about these procedures that we will talk today.
Climbing roses planting technology
Lush flowering plants require special attention, and long lashes with large velvet flowers are no exception. Only technically verified planting, careful dressing, timely pruning, protection of shrubs from pests and winter warming guarantee a full-fledged result - abundant flowering throughout the warm season.
Choosing a place to grow
Roses are very fond of the sun and can not stand wetlands, so the place of their landing should be well ventilated and illuminated by sunlight. Plants also develop worse if roses have already been planted at the planned location. Not bad if there is a room nearby suitable for winter storage of shrubs.
Lush shrubs are perfect for decorating old buildings, cabins, utility rooms: flowering shoots successfully cover parts of the roof and walls
So that the water does not stagnate in the soil, the selected place must have at least a minimum slope. Waterlogging can occur due to closely occurring groundwater. Keep in mind that the length of the roots often reaches two meters, and if there is a risk of increased humidity, it is necessary to plant flowers on a hill.
Sometimes rose bushes are planted near the walls of the building in order to decorate them, which threatens to deplete the roots. To prevent this trouble, they maintain a distance of 55-60 cm from the wall, as well as at least 50 cm from other plants. The peculiarity of the climbing varieties is the presence of a support, the role of which is usually played by walls, arches, pergolas, nets, fences, specially created cones or poles.
A reliable support for a climbing rose can be built with your own hands from several bars or boards, which are connected in the form of a lattice or cone
You can make a garden arch for roses with your own hands: //diz-cafe.com/dekor/sadovaya-arka-dlya-cvetov.html
Optimal landing time
In the middle zone with a temperate climate, the best landing period is from the last decade of September to the beginning of October. After one to two weeks, the plants give the first roots, which have time to adapt before the onset of severe frost. With the onset of spring, both the aerial and root parts begin to actively develop, and by the time of flowering, the bush is gaining full strength, not inferior in splendor to old plants.
When setting the planting time of climbing roses, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the variety: for example, “Super Dorothy” blooms quite late, despite the early date of planting
If planted in the spring, the development of flowers will be delayed by about 15 days, and care for such a climbing rose will require more careful. Before planting in the soil, the seedling must be made shorter by 2-3 buds. Beginning gardeners do things easier: they buy root crops in containers in the nursery, and place them in the ground in late spring.
Initial processing of seedlings
You should seriously approach the processing of seedlings before planting, otherwise their development will be inferior. Preparation includes several manipulations:
- soaking seedlings in water for 1 day (only the roots or the entire plant);
- pruning shoots and roots;
- dusting of cut points with charcoal previously crushed;
- root treatment with a useful mixture.
By pruning climbing roses, one should understand the shortening of several (3-5) strong shoots to a height of 15 cm, weaker shoots must be completely removed. They do the same with the root system: fragmented or long processes are removed, leaving a small bunch. Thanks to this, the development of the plant will occur more actively, and during the flowering period the rose will give numerous lush buds.
Proper preparation of seedlings is a sure guarantee that the plant will gain maximum strength and will be covered with a violent color at the right time
Cut and saturated with fertilizers, seedlings receive a kind of immunity, thanks to which they quickly develop and bloom in full color
One of the variants of the mineral mixture for processing: a little clay, 1/10 part of the mullein, phosphorobacterin (for 10 l of solution - 2-3 tablets). You can use heteroauxin - just 1 tablet is enough.
Features of soil preparation
The ideal soil for the pink shrub is loose loamy permeable soil containing a fertile layer. Sand and heavy clay are completely unsuitable for growing flowers, so each of these types of soil must be diluted with the opposite. A little lime will make the soil crumbly and more suitable in chemical composition.
If the soil on the site is too acidic, liming is performed: //diz-cafe.com/ozelenenie/izvestkovanie-pochvy.html
Heavy fragrant buds of bright color are the first sign that the soil for the plant is chosen correctly: it passes water and air well
To increase fertility, humus, humus, phosphoric fertilizers, and special soil bacteria (phosphorobacterin) are added to the soil. At the end of summer, they dig everything up several times, and in the spring they make another shoveling.
Pit device: more freedom
The volume of the planting pit should be sufficient so that the young roots of the plant do not experience a deficit of free space. The optimum depth is 60-65 cm. The pits must be located at a distance of at least 1 m from one another, only in this case the root system can freely develop. When planting a rose, the root neck is immersed in the soil by about 10-12 cm - thus, it is protected from frost in the winter (if there is additional warming).
When arranging a landing hole, it is necessary to take into account not only its size, but also its location relative to the support: nothing should interfere with the development of the roots of the plant
Roots are positioned freely, carefully falling asleep voids between them. About 5 kg of peat compost or a similar nutrient mixture should be added to each hole. Fill the hole with earth to the level of the soil surface, and then trample a little. Further care for weaving roses involves timely fertilizing. The first is carried out immediately after planting. For irrigation, a mixture of phosphobacterin and heteroauxin is excellent; humates are an option.
To saturate the soil with trace elements useful for the plant, it is mulched with humus, compost or humus, which are easy to prepare in the country with your own hands.
If you want to create a rose garden on your plot, then use not only curly types of roses in it: //diz-cafe.com/ozelenenie/rozarij-svoimi-rukami.html
Garter and Shrub Formation
By directing young shoots, you can give the rose bush exactly the form that was originally planned. For the formation of more buds and abundant flowering, gartering of individual lashes is necessary. Usually climbing species are used for vertical decoration, but this does not mean that all branches should be directed upwards: with this arrangement, the bush will become poorer and buds will appear only at the very top.
The solution is simple: several main branches must be placed horizontally, and for this they need to be tied up. Each main lash will give several side shoots growing up, and most importantly - a whole cloud of lush flowers. This principle is good for decorating walls, high mesh fences, pergolas.
Proper garter of roses ensures the development of shoots in the right direction: along the fence or arch, on top of the plane, around supports of various configurations
An excellent solution for a walking path - an enfilade of arches designed for decoration with climbing roses and clematis, which are already planted and will soon grow
Another popular way of arranging the shoots is the “fan”, when the side shoots freely extend up and to the sides, without interfering with each other. For braiding a pillar or arch, a “spiral” is more suitable when the lashes are twisted around a support. With any arrangement of shoots, one should not neglect the care of curly roses, and this applies not only to regular pruning, watering and top dressing, but also to preparation for frosts.
Do not forget about the aesthetic role of climbing rose bushes: their appearance can be freshened by removing dried shoots or cutting off excess lashes
Winter Shelter and Storage
Ordinary roses are enough autumn hilling, climbing need complete thermal insulation. There are two ways to shelter a bush for the winter: with removal from a support and without it.
In the first case, the plant is completely removed from the support, leaves are removed, weak sprouts and old lashes are trimmed, leaving only 11-12 strong shoots. They are carefully collected in a large bundle, tied, tilted to the ground and fixed in this position with the help of pegs. Lastly, cover with spruce paws. The base of the shrub should be sprinkled with a mixture of soil and peat, and covered with agrofibre or a dense film on top.
Single rose bushes are sheltered separately, and nearby growing bushes can be insulated with a large piece of agrofiber, covering several shrubs at once
The second method resembles the first, but the lashes remain tied to the support. It is used in regions with milder climates. The shoots are covered with the same spruce, and on top hermetically wrapped with a film. High-quality covering material and properly executed insulation guarantee the safety of the rose bush until the spring thaw.
In addition to pruning and sheltering, roses also need other procedures before wintering: //diz-cafe.com/rastenija/uxod-za-rozami-osenjyu.html
Only by fulfilling these requirements, one can hope for good flowering.
